When backpacking to Bolivia most travellers want to explore the country’s Number One Tourist Attraction – Salar de Uyuni – the biggest salt flat in the world. As part of this adventure, you’ll probably also want to investigate the south of the country with its stunning arid sceneries, volcanoes and amazing coloured lagoons…
I have spent more than a year traveling and working throughout South America and I always try to find my own way through a country instead of booking a tour. In the end, it is not only more fun and adventurous, it will at the same time connect you to the locals who will be more than happy to teach you about their culture.As I had some friends from Canada and Europe planning a visit to Bolivia I asked myself – why don’t we rent a car instead of booking with a tour group? (If you would like to consider the tour option, check out this review of a Salar de Uyuni Tour here.
There are a couple of huge benefits of car rental…
Freedom
I guess everyone who has ever rented or owned a car and explored a country this way knows how much freedom you gain being able to stop wherever you want and make your home wherever you park it.
Time
Most tours range from one to four days, a car rental makes you more flexible regarding your time frame. You can stay as long as you want!
Timing
You can plan your journey to ensure that you are not in the same location as the tour groups at the same time. You can have ALL THIS to yourself!
Shared Memory
As you can imagine, renting a car and heading out on a road trip in a country that you don’t know is exciting and a little scary. But rest assured that you’ll meet local people along the way who will help you with your journey and be excited to learn more about your culture too!Being able to chat with locals, cook together and play with their kids – all these experiences will be possible when you have the time to connect and stay a little longer at each place – a luxury that you often don’t have when travelling in a tour group.
Getting ready
We knew that there wouldn’t be a lot of shops along the way so we bought veggies, fruit, wine and snacks in advance in Sucre, our starting point, and some additional items in Tupiza. Make sure you bring enough water for the drive to be able to cook and to stay hydrated especially on altitudes above 4,000m!
Rent your car in Sucre
We started our adventure in Sucre, the white city of Bolivia, a lovely town with a mild climate and a perfect spot to plan the trip. Here we stayed in the wonderful Beehive Hostel and rented our car with the amazing people of BIZ car rental, a small & young business with brand new 4×4’s that allow you to drive over the salt flats, which not every car rental in Bolivia does. They also provide you with a lot of information to make you feel comfortable on the road. Just send them a message to receive a personal quote and they will get back to you as soon as possible.
We choose the Mitsubishi Montero Sport…
…but there are a lot of other cars to choose from depending on how many people you are and what’s your budget.
They are also very knowledgeable when it comes to direction and distance. Their rental package includes:
- A 100 litre extra tank, as there are no gas stations in the south.
- A shuffle will be provided in case you get stuck.
- Two spare tires.
- Hose to fill up the gas.
- Maps and a GPS.
- Compass.
The Route
I did the drive twice with different groups of friends and the first one I did was a little more adventurous; we slept in the car and went a slightly different route from Sucre to Tupiza to Uyuni to Sud Lipez and back to Sucre via the Salt Flats.Both routes have amazing landscapes although the tour via Tupiza felt a little more adventurous. In the following I will explain the second route a little more in detail.
Route 1:
Sucre – Tupiza – Laguna Verde – Salar Uyuni – Sucre
Route 2: The classic itinerary
Sucre – Laguna Verde– Salar Uyuni – Sucre
Heading South
From Sucre we headed south towards Uyuni. The landscapes along the way are truly amazing and you will be impressed by the scenery of mountains, volcanoes and lagoons. On our way we passed through the city of Potosi, where you can stay for the night, but we kept on going to leave the bigger cities behind…
Uyuni is a small desert town with lots of hostels, restaurants and markets to stock up on food, water and gas.From there you head further south while finding your way through different treks that more or less all lead the same direction:
Laguna Colorada
The red lagoon is located at 4,200m and there are some basic hostels close by…
Around noon the colour red is most visible, but also around sunrise and sunset you can witness stunning views on the lake, which is filled with pink flamingoes.We spent two nights of the journey here and the next day was a perfect day trip down south to Laguna Verde and the Chilean boarder.
Geysers
Only half an hour away from Laguna Colorada you will encounter the geysers. At this point you have reached the highest point of the journey, which is at 4,900m.
Laguna Verde
The green lake is located at the most southern point and almost on the Chilean boarder. We arrived at Laguna Blanca and from where we walked to the border.
It is a 2-hour windy walk with amazing scenery. At Laguna Blanca you can also find a small restaurant and hostel incase you want to spend the night.
Hot Springs
The hot springs are located one hour away from Laguna Colorada, but we decided to stop by on our way back when we had the hot springs all to ourselves.
Heading North
We chose to head back to Uyuni on a different route along the border of Chile, stopping by plenty more lagoons and volcanoes. This route is a little more challenging to drive but totally worth it.In order to stay on track we constantly asked drivers along the way who were always super friendly and helpful when it came to directions.
Salar Uyuni
We drove to a tiny town called Chuvica and one of the guides directed us to a salt hotel for 35BOB (4.9US$)
Isla Incahuasi
In the salt hotel we enjoyed our first shower since a couple of days and relaxed a little in order to be ready for the next day and our drive on the Salar itself!
Tunupa
In Tunupa we watched a wonderful sunset and got up at 5am the next morning to enjoy sunrise on the salt flats which was indeed n unforgettable moment. Tunupa is named after the volcano which is close to the town and definitely is one of the highlights of the area.
Train Graveyard
From there we headed back to Uyuni to explore the train graveyard, which is a wonderful place to wander and explore and take some photos that look like a film set!
After a big breakfast we headed on back to Sucre, which is a 6-hour drive from here. We brought the car back and enjoyed another night in Sucre reflecting all what we had seen and experienced before heading back to La Paz.
General info for undertaking your own independent road trip:
Driving
In general it’s pretty easy to drive, although once you leave Uyuni there are no paved roads any more. Nevertheless, you only drive off road in rare locations. That being said you don’t have to be a 4×4 expert to be able to do this trip!
Language
I would defiinitely advise to be able to at least speak the basics in Spanish as the car rental and also the police officers along the way won’t speak English. The same goes for the guides, in case you get lost and you want to ask for directions.In the end knowing the language will enrich your experience as you’d be able to talk to locals along the way.
Safety
In general it is a touristic zone and there is no real need to be scared. I did it twice and we never felt unsafe even while sleeping out there in the nature.
Season
We did our trip during the dry season, which starts in May and lasts until October. During the summer months, which are from November to April driving will be more difficult and I am not sure if I’d recommend heading south.However, this is the time to head to the Salar if you want to photograph reflections.
Things to bring along your South Bolivian Adventure:
Warm clothes: During the night temperatures drop below zero so bring layers.
Coca leaves: The highest point will be around 5,000m so make sure you acclimatise beforehand and bring some coca leaves to make tea, which will aid any altitude sickness.
Camping equipment: If you intend on sleeping in the car bring a good sleeping bag and a camping cooker along in order to make tea and be able to cook.
Water and food: Once you leave Uyuni or Tupiza there won’t be any markets with fresh fruit and vegetables, only small stores with the basic necessities.
Cash: There are only ATMs in Uyuni and Tupiza so bring along some Bolivianos in order to pay for hostels and gas, and the entrance fee of the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve of 150 BOB.
In general the costs of a car rental are higher than booking with a tour agency, but the freedom and the adventure you will gain are priceless. Driving through the south of Bolivia made me speechless countless times and we encountered probably some of the most stunning scenery I have seen in my life.So in the end I am glad we took our time to explore, wander and have the time to really appreciate the beauty instead of rushing through the region as some of the tour groups do.
We paid in total with 4 people around $1000 for the rental and additionally around $150 for accommodation, food and gas for 6 days for all of us. In case you hadn’t guessed – IT WAS WELL WORTH IT!
Regina Roeder | reginaroeder.com
Regina Roeder has traded home for the road nine years ago in order to seek adventures all the way from the beaches of Australia to the mountains of Canada and lots of places in between. Her excitement and passion for photography and film production has driven her journey, but her love for the outdoors has always brought her back to her favourite two elements: The oceans and the mountains. Currently based in South America, she is looking forward to exploring remote places, catching waves, climbing mountains and chasing sunsets while documenting her journey.
Find Regina on: Instagram
Hi there
I’m Bolivian and I appreciate your interest in my country and how much you enjoy it 😀
However, it is dangerous to drive by yourself in the salt flat and I would not recommend it. The salt flat is massive and there are not really any points of reference to orient yourself, phone signal is unreliable at best and compasses don’t work very well inside the salt flat due to its high content of lithium.
It is VERY WORTH to mention that every few years there are news of tourists that got lost in the salt flat and needed to be rescued and luckily were found alive, dehydrated and sunburnt or found dead or not found at all.
The Bolivian State doesn’t have the infrastructure/man power to have regular checks to check for lost people in the salt flat, and if something happen (you get lost or stuck or something like that) and you don’t have people waiting for you or aware of your location and itinerary, you are basically on your own, and rescue is not coming.
I highly recommend that at least for the salt flat part of your trip, please hire a tour agency, they know the area, the risks and they communicate with each other regularly via radio, so they can reach to each other if they need rescue.
Besides that, your blog was on point and great tips!
Very impressed, and cool to see your report! Pretty much the only such report I’ve found when Googling it. I am very much into self-driving myself anywhere, including very remote areas of Namibia, Iceland, Chile, etc, but that area south of Uyuni really sketched me out when we went a few years ago. Maybe if I go back some day I’d self-drive, but it’s one of the few times I’ve gotten a tour and not regretted it. Since I went I have a lot more offroads experience, and experience digging my car out of sand and mud, but… the path down to the Chilean border is still a crazy part of the world. The Chilean side near SPdA is like the easy version equivalent that you did on the Bolivian side. (Not nearly so far to civilization — although, still remote and isolated and desolate, at least we got signal on our phones pretty much all the time.)
If I go back and self drive that part of Bolivia some day, I’d definitely get a satellite phone too.
Hey Nikki, thank you so much for your post! I enjoyed reading it very much. Right now I am already traveling with the bicycle in Bolivia and for Salar de Uyuni I am considering a roadtrip as well. Some locals told me that there are areas you are not allowed to enter without a guide in the car – they got stopped by police checkpoints. Did you make similar experiences? And are there car rental companies closer to Salar de Uyuni (e.g. Uyuni itself)?
Any kind of response is much appreciated. Thank you, Oliver
Awesome blog. Thanks for writing this. We are visiting Bolivia coming March and were wondering if we can do similar trip in March considering that it is still rainy season? Thanks.
Hello 🙂
Me and a friend are planning to organised a self drive to the salt flats from Uyuni and wanted to know how many days would we need to cover the route 2 ?
Thanks
How long did you take on both routes?
Hi,
Great post. Myself and 4 friends did a very similar trip after reading this article and we had an excellent time, however I feel that this article really downplays some of the risks and important considerations so I thought that I would share some key points from our experience.
– Biz car (who were very helpful) are based in Sucre which is 360km from Uyuni. As Biz Car Rental charge by the Km obviously it is very important to factor this in when estimating the cost of your trip.
– Driving in Sucre (and Bolivia for that matter) is a nightmare, the roads are super tight and we commonly encountered cars on the wrong side of the road, driving at night with no lights and clearly drunk drivers. This shouldn’t necessarily put you off the trip but the dangers of driving in Bolivia should not be understated.
– Sleeping in the Car. We slept in the car during this trip which happened in early June and it was COLD. Cars are very poor at retaining heat when the engine is not running. On one night it reached -10 degrees C, and it can get a whole lot colder, this could really catch you out if your not prepared.
– Directions. There are many, many different routes often all leading to the same places, however the road condition can vary massively between these. To navigate we used a combination of google maps and MapsMe on our phones. the GPS which we rented from Biz car was less helpful than the above so we didn’t use it. I would recommend that you spend the time researching the exact route that the tour groups take in case you need help or you wish to take it easier on the driving for a while.
– Gas. We very very nearly ran out of gas. Obviously be mindful of this as it is hard to estimate as speed and road condition have a big impact on the amount that you will use.
– Driving off road. Some of the off road driving can be quite severe, depending on which road you take, I had never driven a 4 wheel drive car before this trip and we were just about OK in this regard, but if you’re in the same boat then I would defiantly recommend using Youtube to learn as best you can how to drive 4WD car before you get behind the wheel. Beware of the sticky mud, don’t just continue driving when you feel the wheels bog down as you will get stuck as we did a couple of times, this could be a massive issue for you if you are in a small group and don’t have the man power to dig and push yourselves out!
None of the above points are aimed at putting you off doing this trip as I can honestly say that it was one the most enjoyable parts of our 5 month trip. However it is no small undertaking, it will most likely be very stressful at times and I can not stress enough how important it is to do thorough and in-depth research on route, where you will be sleeping etc before you leave!
Hope this helps.
Wow! This is all very useful information. Thanks very much for the update!
Hi,
Just a note to say thank you.. this inspired our trip to Bolivia and we did an almost identical journey. Biz Rent a Car was fantastic.. our Toyota Hilux was superb, and it was a real adventure. Thanks.
Hi! Great post! I love the idea of renting a car b/c of my limited time and figuring out flights/bus etc. the timing doesn’t seem to be maximized. However, I am wondering if it is safe to drive from La Paz to Uyuni and surrounding areas. What are your thoughts? Thank you so much in advance.
Hi there
thank you for the information. I was wondering if you had the amount of time it took you to complete the second route and where you stayed? I am very interested in doing this but trying to determine a timeline.
Thank you!
Carlee
Hi friends, I will do almost the same trip by car from Tupiza, down to Laguna Verde and up to Uyuni, in 4 days. May I ask you, the price you had pay for the rental car and the accomodation, it is in dollar or Bolivianos? Did you previously reserve the accomodation, or, is it easy to find accomodation there? Do you remember which villages have more options of accomodation?
Thank you!